Violence and Favelas: Is It Really That Bad?

Latin America has a bad reputation for violence. Many people consider Brazil a dangerous place. But I wonder whether this label is just. Is Brazil as violent and dangerous as people say?

One question that seems to come up every time I go anywhere in the world is: ‘did you feel safe there?’ It can be difficult to answer because it is often when you let your guard down that bad things can happen. Even the world’s ‘safest’ cities have their dangerous spots, where any number of things can go wrong. I know that’s a bit of a cop out, but it is true. That said, there are a few places that I have felt a little uneasy and I suppose that Rio de Janeiro would make it on this list.

World Homicide rates (the darker the worse)

The ‘Cidade Maravilhosa’ certainly is a different kettle of fish. There is an immense disparity of wealth. Seeing homeless people sprawled across the pavement, fast asleep, is an everyday sight. On the flip side, Ipanema is home to some of the most expensive real estate on the continent. I’m not insinuating that homeless people are a precursor to violence and danger, just that this vast wealth disparity gives you some idea of the huge differences in society. I think it goes some way to explaining why crime is rife.

Muggings are commonplace. Rio receives millions of visitors a year and they really do stand out. The sunburn is the main giveaway, but if you get close enough to hear what language they’re speaking, you’ve really sussed them out. Naturally, muggers and pickpockets target these people, as they are likely to be less streetwise around the city. I consider myself fairly streetwise, but it didn’t stop me from getting mugged on my third day here. A man appeared with a knife and I had to bid my phone good day.

The trick is trying to be constantly aware. Not carrying too much cash around and flaunting any technological devices are obviously rules of thumb. But I now find myself looking around occasionally, trying to determine if anyone is watching or following me. It’s a shame that I don’t feel completely at ease, especially as, since that day, I have never once felt threatened. It is, of course, better to be safe than sorry and getting complacent as I head into the final stretch of my stay would be foolish.

Pacification of Maré favela (www.zimbio.com)

By far the most irritating thing is that I rarely take my camera out. It is so conspicuous and something that immediately singles me out as a tourist. The fact that the majority of my memories of this city will be just memories, in a world where photos are taken of pretty much everything in life, disappoints me. In the parts of London, Bristol and Tomsk that I regularly frequent, I have almost never felt remotely under threat, and certainly never enough to force me to leave my camera at home.

In my opinion, one of the reasons people associate Rio with violence and danger stems from the favelas, or ‘communities’ as they are officially know. These are the opportunistic neighbourhoods that sprung up on Rio’s hillsides as more and more people flocked to the cities in search of work. Perversely, the best views in the city are almost exclusively found in favelas, by far the poorest parts of the city. In recent years, the city’s government has made steps to register these favelas as official parts of the city, by ‘pacifying’ them. Run by drug lords, the police infamously used to turn a blind eye to the illegality and injustice that reigned inside these communities. But now, tanks and armed soldiers have been thrown in, attempting to seize control and give rise to law-abiding communities with access to all public services. The so-called ‘pacification’ of the Maré favela was well publicised, largely because it was anything but peaceful.

the view from Vidigal favela

 The desire of many inhabitants of favelas is for the dangerous taboo to be removed. In my experience, locals are only too happy for ‘gringos’ to come and see their communities, dispelling the myth that these are out of control war-zones. From a night of jazz music in Catete favela on Friday to a film viewing in Cantagalo favela the week before, there is so much on offer and those experiences that you really can’t get at home are not to be missed. When you speak to residents, you realise that overwhelming majority are just hard working, genuine people, aiming to live a life devoid of violence and crime.

Unfortunately, many of Rio’s other inhabitants, those who live in the more affluent areas, have developed a fear of favelas, which further damages the favelas' reputation. They want nothing to do with them, believing them to be recipes for disaster, accidents waiting to happen and any other cliché of your choosing. As far as I'm concerned, if you flaunt what you’ve got or go wandering down unknown streets, you are asking for trouble, but otherwise you have nothing to worry about. As I said, danger can manifest itself anywhere in the world.

the view from Catete favela (not a great camera in my defence)

The stats may say that Brazil has higher carjacking and homicide rates than most, but I genuinely believe that if you use your common sense, you will be fine. Touch wood. What’s more, I don’t have a car. The main downside of its bad reputation for me personally, is that I am forever on my toes; a small price to pay for my safety. It remains to be seen whether my theory is correct, as millions of tourists pour into the country for the World Cup. Hearing English has already become more of a regular occurrence and the thieves may be licking their lips in anticipation.